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Take a Staycation: How to Spend 48 Hours in the Museum District

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Monarch Bistro's dining room at Hotel ZaZa
Monarch Bistro's dining room at Hotel ZaZa

Looking to leave it all behind for the weekend? Why not decamp to a place that won’t cost an arm and a leg, that doesn’t need months of advance booking, and requires not a single plane ride—hell, you don’t even need a car to get around in the Museum District. That’s what we call relaxing.

Friday 

6 p.m. Check into the Hotel Zaza. (Book the Arts & Smarts Package, which features a $50 credit at the Monarch Restaurant, free valet parking, and two tickets to any MFAH exhibition.)

6:30 p.m.Dinner on the Monarch’s lush patio.

8:30 p.m. Grab a seat on the lawn at Miller Outdoor Theater for a free concert by the Houston Symphony. (There are five of them planned this summer.)

10 p.m.Nightcaps back at the hotel.

Saturday

9 a.m. Room service!

10 a.m. For her: Zaspa facial, massage, and mani-pedi. For him: tee time at the scenic 18-hole Hermann Park Golf Course. 

Noon Lunch from a local food truck and a picnic at the Cullen Sculpture Garden.

1 p.m. Museum crawl: the Museum of Fine Arts, the Contemporary Arts Museum, the Houston Museum of Natural Science, the Asia Society, the Health Museum, and more, as all are within easy walking distance of each other.

4:30 p.m. Catch the light rail to the Ensemble/HCC station and walk five short blocks to DiverseWorks. 

6:30 p.m. Head back to Main St. and revive yourself with coffees at Double Trouble Caffeine & Cocktails.

7 p.m. Pick up some locally made jewelry, art, and music at Sig’s Lagoon, The Tinderbox, and My Flaming Heart.

8 p.m. Dinner at chef Monica Pope’s Sparrow Bar + Cookshop

9:30 p.m. Live music at the Continental Club and Shoeshine Charley’s Big Top Lounge

Midnight Still up? Grab late night Tex-Mex at Tacos a Go-Go and catch the train back to the hotel.

Sunday

10 a.m. Restorative mimosas and Bloody Marys by the pool at Zaza.

Noon Sunday blues brunch at Danton’s.

2 p.m. Walk it off at the Houston Zoo and Hermann Park; take a trip on the tiny train and relive your childhood. 

5 p.m. Head home, replenished and refueled by your weekend “away.”


Ridin' Dirty Volume V

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It's been awhile -- time for another iPhone dump of some of my favorite shots I've taken of this fabulously messed-up city we call home. As the great 30footFALL singer / longtime downtown bike messenger Butch Klotz once put it: "Houston. You love it because it's made of garbage."

Riding the side streets along N. Durham and N. Shepherd one Saturday afternoon, I came across this little lady chomping grass near a car lot. She had a friend across the street working the same gig.

It took all my Facebook friends a couple of hours to help me puzzle out the meaning of this strange sign I found across the street from the Sonic near N. Shepherd and 610. I thought it was runic, but it ain't, nomtombot?

This beauty is often posted up outside Big Star Bar in Shady Acres. 

Groucho glasses at the Bellaire Nature Center.

Jedi sign in the First Ward Arts District.

Cranky sign on a North Main convenience store's front door.

Boots at the pulga at Hillcroft and the Southwest Freeway.  I can't decide between the tiger stripes or the checkerboard, and I need the Columbia blue ones for Oilers parties.

I have been commanded to "Stop N' Go," "Tote-M," and even, in Colorado, to "Kum N Go," but I have never been ordered around by a convenience store with as much specificity as at this Spring Branch shop. Even so it's a bit confusing. I get that they want me to stop then buy something, but what? Just some food or the whole food store?

 How the West Was Won, Versions 1.0 and 2.0. (Taken in Independence Heights.)

 This is not the boot and shoe repair store you are looking for...

And this is not the Happyland it once was...

I'll close on an inspirational note. Against all odds, this thing still works.

So until next time, keep your lens cleaned, those tires pumped, and your chains good and greasy and I'll see you up the trail.

Exploring Timbergrove Park Apartments, Part One

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Just west of TC Jester on West 11th stands the ruins of the Timbergrove Park Apartments. Not since the long-delayed demolition of the Parc Memorial complex on Memorial at Detering has there been such a bountiful inner-loop urban exploration destination. Here is part one of a two-part photo essay, this one covering the grounds. In the next installment we will take you inside the ruined buildings. (UPDATE: Part II is here.)

Handsome palms line the entryway to the complex's office...

One of the buildings is cordoned off as an asbestos hazard. In several, the electricity and water is still running.

It is apparent that a great many of the tenants left in a hurry. Each of the complex's courtyards is full of the detritus of their lives.

Like so...

 And so...

...And so.

 

There is everything from toys...

...to whole rooms, all ruined.

Here is the pool...

And the environs of the laundry room...

Someone had success with a tomato plant, now trampled and at the mercy of a pair of mockingbirds...

It seems like the residents were evicted some time shortly after Christmas, as signs of holiday cheer abound.

The saddest Christmas tree ever...

Many of the residents worked in the restaurant industry...

A giant trash pile in the parking lot offers strange tableaux like this one...

And this one...

So long for now. See you back here for Part II.

Exploring Timbergrove Park Apartments, Part II

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Earlier we brought your Part One of our adventures at the abandoned, partially demolished, 56-year-old Timbergrove Park apartments. That post covered the parking lot, pool area, and courtyards; this one takes us inside five of the complex's six two-story residential buildings. (All except the one with the asbestos quarantine.)

So come on in!

We are not in Kansas anymore...

Some cupboards were not bare...

(All of those Speed Sticks were empty; evidently this person had a deodorant hoarding fetish.)

There were memories of happy times...

And one scene that freaked me the hell out...

(It's nail polish. I think.)

Some walls were adorned with sweet-natured works of art...

While others were not...

While still others sported the lyrics of Snow Patrol songs...

This one put me in mind of Pompeii, where archaelogists found frescoes picturing the doomed homeowners on the walls of their volcanically entombed abodes. 

See what I mean?

It was eerie in there. The smoke alarms were chirping their dead battery alerts in many of the units, and ceiling fans were spinning in others. As you might be able to imagine the smell was dank in the extreme. It was time to go...

 

The Street Couches of Houston

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I guess it's the boom times we are living through—people moving around and/or upgrading their settees—but in the last year or so Houston's street couch population has exploded. Here is a whole relaxation of discarded sofas I have found while riding my bike around in the last 12 months.

I found this cushionless matched pair in the alleyway near the Family Thrift on Durham. I've been told that roofers buy old couches, take the cushions as padding for their knees, and then dump the rest. Given their proximity to Family Thrift, I think that's what happened to these two. Also their Cosby-sweater pattern makes them kind of unfit for human consumption nowadays.

Skyline view! Swimming pool! Starting in the low 300s!

A keeper, found in Shady Acres. This was one day I wished I had a truck.

A Garden Oaks Shangri-La. Ponder the big blue Texas sky.

Wicked wicker.

Warm. (Squeee) Leatherette. (Squaaw)

These chairs are gone now. So are the houses. 

Since we've strayed a bit from street couches, we'll just throw this in here as well...

Back on point, the abandoned TimbergrovePark apartments is Street Couch El Dorado...

And another from the same place...

You know you want more...

And more...

And even more...

These babies really will save you money!

Have You Seen Your Mother, Baby?

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The amount of talent that was in and around Houston's music scene in 1968 is simply astounding. All it takes is a quick reading of issue #2 of Mother, Larry Sepulvado's short-lived rock magazine, to tell you that loud and clear as a Roky Erickson howl.

Take the cover.

Unfortunately Mansonesque in retrospect, that's the visage of Rick Barthelme, son and brother of two famous Donalds. At the time, Rick Barthelme was the drummer in the Red Krayola, the psychedelic rock / noise group that coalesced around Mayo Thompson at the University of St. Thomas. Eventually Rick would revert to his full name of Frederick Barthelme and become an award-winning author of New South-based "dirty realism" and "K-Mart fiction," but at the time he was still alienating crowds with the sort of atonal, experimental rock that was capable of alarming the freaks in Berkeley, CA enough to elicit a $10 bribe to stop playing. That's right, Houston out-weirded Berkeley.                                                                           

That cover photo was taken by the late Les Blank, the soon-to-be-award-winning filmmaker most famous locally for his documentaries The Blues Accordin' to Lightnin' Hopkins and A Well-Spent Life, about Navasota's sharecropping songster Mance Lipscomb. Both are now in the Criterion Collection.

Half of the rest of the photographs in Mother were snapped by a part-time artist, part-time folkie by the name of Guy Clark. "Guy is good at anything that is artistic," Sepulvado noted in his column "For What It's Worth." 

So was the Houston of 1968, as that column makes abundantly clear in its first few paragraphs. "Houston is a very fertile ground for talent," wrote Sepulvado. "Already projected from this area is JANIS JOPLIN of Big Brother and the Holding Co., JERRY JEFF WALKER of Circus Maximus both of who [sic] at one time played Houston's folk club SAND MOUNTAIN on Richmond, Lightnin' Hopkins and his brother, MANCE LIPSCOMB, Johnny Nash, and Gale Storm. (?) Impressive, huh?" (Storm was a joke... She was a local who went on to mainstream fame as a postwar pop was then in the twilight of her fame. Also, Hopkins and Lipscomb were not related.)

Sepulvado name-checks some local bands with hilariously dated names: Eden's Children, Ultimate Spinach, Neurotic Sheep. Can you dig, man?

The fool on the hill, illustrated by Larry Sepulvado's late brother Lloyd.

Sepulvado then moves on to the bands he thinks really have a chance to hit it big: Red Krayola, the 13th Floor Elevators, and Fever Tree. 

Though none of them exactly seized control of the pop charts, each developed cult followings and critical acclaim that extends into the present. The Elevators were the most psychedelic band of all time, bar none. Chicago's uber-hip Drag City label is enamored with the Red Krayola, who were a primary influence on that city's post-rock scene of the 1990s and early 2000s. Fever Tree managed to chart in 1968 with their single "San Francisco Girls" and rapper Madvillain built a track around their funky take on Steve Cropper's "99 and a Half Won't Do" in 2004.

Sepulvado was also high on The Moving Sidewalks. "Bill Gibbons is an exceptional guitarist with one of those really strange voices," he noted, pretty much describing every ZZ Top album to come. And down in the news and notes section of the column there's this aside: "More from Sand Mountain; Townes Van Zandt has a record contract and an album and single slated for release."

All that plus ruminations on the then-rarely-explored interconnectedness of rock and country music and Donovan's career and renunication of psychedelic drugs. And then there's that interview with the Red Krayola touted on the cover, in which they talk about how they ruined a party at UH and played a disastrous / sublime set (depending on who you believe) at the opening of artist/sculptor David Adickes's new Allen's Landing club: the Love Street Light Circus and Feel Good Machine.

Said the Krayola's Mayo Thompson: "[Adickes] knew Rick [Barthleme] because of the art thing. We used  to crash his openings and drink wine and stand around. He got us one time to play this happening. He did a little light show and impromptu number and told us he was opening this club and we hinted about being the house band. So the last time he saw us we were doing semi-rock music. The next time he saw us we had dropped the drums and the Familiar Ugly." (It was the '60s. Explaining "Familiar Ugly" here is too hard to explain.) "We were doing this three-piece thing with clarinets, trumpets, guitars, razors on cymbals, phonograph turntables, and tapes, etc. But he had already asked us to play the press opening for Love Street and we played our music. He hired another [house] band."

Sepulvado asked the band to clarify if they indeed even made it to that opening.

Adickes loves Houston more than the Red Krayola version 2.0

"We played opening night and he knelt down front, wanting us to get off stage," Thompson said. "I'm not knocking him but I don't think he liked us too much. He has provided a certain class to Houston that it did not have before." 

All that, plus ads like this:

  

Touring the Girl Scout History Museum

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Goodykoontz Museum of Girl Scout History
Mon–Fri from 9–5; Sat 9–1
Free
3110 Southwest Fwy
713-292-0300
gssjc.org

“On my honor I will try: To serve God and my country, to help people at all times, and to live by the Girl Scout Law.” I cannot count the amount of times I have heard this Girl Scout credo throughout my childhood—after all, I spent six years as a member of Troop 12626 and three more overseeing Brownies and Daisies at troop meetings and themed days.

So when I recently toured the Goodykoontz Museum of Girl Scout History, which opened in 2007 in the Girl Scouts of San Jacinto’s Houston headquarters, it felt like a trip back in time to elementary school. Walking into the nondescript Greenway Plaza office building, I was greeted by a docent who seemed as much a product of the Girl Scouts as any of the artifacts inside the exhibit.

Barbara introduced herself immediately and offered a personal tour of the museum, which is named after Girl Scout historian and philanthropist Dorothy Goodykoontz—possibly the most perfect Girl Scout name ever. Without waiting for a response, Barbara began telling me about her own experience with the Scouts. She pointed out dolls in the display cases and pieces of history that highlight Girl Scout founder Juliette Gordon Low, encouraging me to visit her birthplace the next time I was in Savannah, Georgia. 

After deciding to take my own personal tour, wandering away from a very eager Barbara, I followed a path through the building to view a timeline of the Girl Scouts of San Jacinto—a group that encompasses 26 counties in Southeast Texas but is based in Houston. I learned that Texas boasts one of the largest Scout councils in the nation with 72,000 girls and 17,000 adult scout leaders

The best part of the visit was seeing photos and old memorabilia from Girl Scout camps I’d attended, including Camp Agnes Arnold, where a hippo was rumored to inhabit the camp’s lake, and Camp Misty Meadows, home to horses that perform tricks that amaze even the oldest campers.

If you bring your kids, they can play dress-up in vintage Girl Scout uniforms, or, if they’re more inclined towards music, they can step into a soundproof booth and listen to a CD of the Girl Scouts Greatest Hits. Didn’t know the Girl Scouts had greatest hits? Actually, the series runs to at least 11 volumes, and includes such classics as “Boogie Woogie Alligator,” “Brownie Smile Song,” and “Make New Friends.”

If you’re lucky enough to have a famed past in Girl Scouts, try to spot your name on the Gold Award wall, commemorating all the girls who have achieved the organization’s highest honor. On your way out, take a peek at some of the more dated uniforms, or purchase a new one in the gift store near the exit. One thing you won’t find in the gift shop? Girl Scout cookies. You’ll have to wait for the next cookie season to come along for those. 

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Second-Hand Madness

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I've been a thrift store fan for years, and now that my daughter takes a three-hour gym class in Southwest Houston, I have ample time and opportunity to explore one of Houston's great second-hand shopping nirvanas.

With a Salvation Army and a Value Village adjacent on Bissonnet, and an always-interesting Goodwill on Hillcroft, Gulfton and Meyerland comprise the Galleria-Highland Village of cut-rate deals. Here are a few of the treasures I have found there recently. (Sorry for the preponderance of vinyl; the music section is generally my first port of call, every time.)

I think it would be awesomeness if we renamed the sleep feature on all alarm clocks "the shut-up button." 

Caps commemorating two intertwined Houston catastrophes!

Little known fact: Before joining the cast of SNL, Fred Armisen was in a top-selling Mexican band.

The thought process that went into the creation of this classic jazz album's cover has eluded everyone for five decades now. When I first posted it on Facebook, it ruined Houston Chronicle culture critic Andrew Dansby's day. "I've been unable to work today because of that Jimmy & Wes cover," he wrote me via Facebook. "I think as soon as I have an even remotely plausible theory for why it exists I can start working."

Nature Boy turned Preacher Man. 

Sin and salvation are never far apart in the Meyerland Goodwill. The front cover of this album was too racy to show on a family blog. 

Well, that's all I've got for you. I hope you are more impressed with my finds than Crabby the Evil Clown.

(Should you want this little blob of nightmare fuel in your own home, it should still be on the shelves at the Bissonnet Salvation Army.)

  


The Street Couches of Houston: Volume II

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Earlier this summer we brought you the first installment of The Street Couches of Houston, and since then we've seen many more and also received a steady trickle of contributions from Abandoned Furniture Correspondents from the Med Center to the North Loop. Here is the latest installment.

(Those seriously interested in the topic should check out the work of Keith Plocek, a Houstonian in Los Angeles.) 

A vertical dump found near Yale and W. 5th Street: 

The "Couch of Woe," found by Clint "Hydro" Heider near the concrete banks of Brays Bayou:

The next three photos are a series taken between August 9 and yesterday evening in the welter of soon-to-be-demolished apartment complexes across the street from the West Alabama Ice House.

The pile begins...

Image: Greg Wood

And accretes more furnishings and a random shopping cart....

Image: Greg Wood

 And here it is as of 6 p.m. last night...Truly a sight to behold.

Below, two more in "Flop Alley," the cut-through from Durham to North Shepherd in the Kroger shopping center near W. 11th. Flop Alley was featured in the first installment as well.

Another vertical dump:

Token easy chair, found in Montrose by Nick Hall: 

Image: Nick Hall

The giant truck tire brings a little something special to this tableau captured by Daragh Carter in a northside Home Depot parking lot:

And here we have my very own street couch. My son had just moved into our backyard house and we were scrambling for furnishings when a neighbor put a two-piece sectional out on the curb. As a rainstorm built in the skies, my son and I hefted this half of the set and hauled it the two houses down our street to our place. As we did so, we realized that the thing reeked of dog, and then I remembered that these are the neighbors I'd seen walking a pony-sized Great Dane. By then the rain was falling hard, so instead of returning it, we left it in front of our house, where it squatted for a couple of weeks, or long enough to kill the grass beneath it and for a neighbor to call us (and our neighbor) "white trash" in the neighborhood listserv. Shamed, my son and I moved the couch to the side of the house and then back out front again on heavy trash day, and my days as a participant in the movement are over.

For now.

 

Meet Sebastien Boncy, Houston's Poet of Visual Blight

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Once you've become a part of this particular patch, you'll never love another. Like loving a woman with a broken nose, you may well find lovelier lovelies, but never a lovely so real.

So wrote Nelson Algren of his hometown in his 1951 essay “Chicago: City on the Make”, and so local photographer Sebastien Boncy would say of Houston, his home more or less constantly since 1996. A native or the Haitian capital of Port-Au-Prince, Boncy describes himself as existing in a sort of cultural limbo: a Haitian in Texas, a Texan in the other 49 states, a “diaspo” in Haiti, and an “Anglo-Black-guy” in France.

Let’s face it: by traditional aesthetic standards, Houston is an ugly city, a flat and sweltering hodgepodge of concrete parking lots and potholed streets and grim overpasses, mirrored glass skyscrapers and mid-rise office buildings, treated plywood privacy fences, and faux-stucco McMansions. Our monuments, edifices and wonders—man-made and natural—are rare to non-existent. And that is exactly what Boncy captures in his lens, somehow making it all seem captivatingly dreamlike in the process. On his Tumblr, Purple Time Space Swamp, Sebastien Boncy’s Houston is so real it becomes surreal.

Not for him the live oak tunnels in Broadacres or the skyline basking in the warmth of a Gulf Coast sunset; Boncy’s inspirations are the very same humdrum tableaux of strip malls, suburban cul-de-sacs, and welters of power lines that outsiders and natives alike love to lament.  

“Houston is nothing but itself,” he said in a phone chat with Houstonia late last year. “Every little bit of it is so basic to me on that level. I am not a big fan of words like ‘authentic’ or ‘real’ but it is very convincing.”

In that sense, Boncy believes it to be similar to his native city. “There’s a straightforwardness I respond to well here that is also very much a part of Port-au-Prince, where I grew up,” he says. “It is so straightforward, in the way that we live, in the way that the city is laid out, and also in the language. We speak mostly Creole and some French. French is a weird language in the way that it circles around things. A vulture language. A beautiful vulture language but like a vulture because it circles around things. Creole is very direct: a lot less Columbo and a lot more Judge Dredd.”

Fotofest press and website coordinator Vinod Hopson met Boncy not long after he arrived here from Haiti in 1996. Back then, Hopson remembers, Boncy was living on the Southwest side and riding the bus. “These two small facts from his history inform his work,” Hopson avers. “He is decidedly urban, and particularly inner-city urban. He is ‘pedestrian’ as in close to the ground, slow, steady, and aware. He is comfortable on the streets, and comfortable working there. ‘Street photography’ is a much admired and aspired to genre in photography. Many try, and most fail because of fear and the fact that they are alien to the environment. They are tourists.” Which is not to say that Boncy’s photos are menacing or “dangerous,” Hopson stresses. “They are not, but they engage the landscape with confidence and familiarity, so they are authentic.”

Hopson remembers a time when they were roommates, when Boncy would ride the bus to and from a teaching job in Denver Harbor, just east of Fifth Ward.  Boncy would come home and tell Hopson tales of getting caught in adolescent rock-fight crossfires that reminded him still more of Haiti.  “Those bus rides and walks; and others in the Second Ward, off North Main, and other parts of the city, helped cultivate a social aspect of his work. I might call it ‘socialist’, as I know he is a great advocate for the working poor, but he most often proclaims himself an ‘anarchist’ in a pure libertarian sense.”

All of Boncy’s work is available for free for any purpose on his tumblr. “I have my BFA and an MFA and I am immersed in the art world, almost trapped in it,” Boncy explains. “The art world’s business model doesn’t make any sense. The artist’s position as a business entity or profit producer—it’s almost [more] like a vocational thing. Yeah, the occasional person makes a living but I decided I would just embrace that [uncompensated] position completely, just embrace the service aspect of it, interact with my community more.”

To those ends, Hopson says, Boncy also engages in playful modes of exhibition such as hiding his prints in random books. “ It is thoughtful and undertaken with intention,” Hopson says. “Those are the two things I admire most in artists—that they work with thoughtfulness and intention.”

“His pictures of Houston crack me up,” writes local art critic and blogger Robert Boyd in an email. “They are so deadpan, so unassuming. He obviously goes to places where no one else goes to take pictures—distant suburbs, industrial parks, etc. He takes pictures of utterly anonymous non-places. Because of the blandness of the settings (he drains every drop of the picturesque from his photos), what ends up dominating them will be something you would ordinarily never notice. You may see a picture of a generic concrete warehouse building with a strip of grass in front, but what leaps out at you is an off-center pile of dirt. His pictures seem to frequently feature something like that—a shadow, an object, whatever—that disturbs the placid scene in some way.”

Boyd likens the unlikely “stars” in these photos to what Roland Barthes dubbed a “punctum.”

“If a photo were beautiful or dramatic or highly composed, you wouldn't necessarily notice the shopping cart or garage sale sign or the stray plastic bag or  whatever,” Boyd explains. “But in Boncy's photos (at least the ones on Purple Time Swamp), these details have a curiously powerful effect.”

He is a pure critic, questioning and commenting on everything around him—sometimes with words, sometimes with pictures,” Hopson says. “Sebastien is one of the most engaged artists I know—engaged in the process, the history, the theory, and the context. Everything you see in his images, even an image of a beer can in a parking lot, is informed by that intense, multi-layered engagement.”

“I don’t have a set goal when I am taking the pictures,” Boncy said. “Most of these come about in the course of my daily life—I’m going to work, I’m going to the grocery store, I’m picking up my daughter or going to see some friends. Sometimes if I have an hour here or there for myself I will go shoot some, but basically the pictures happen because they interest me. I am always trying to keep friends in Houston because other cities beckon all the time, you know. People want to go to New York, Chicago, LA. But Houston is so convincing. It’s the only huge American town that is tourist-free, so no single part of it feels like a put-on. If it’s a put-on, it’s a put-on for the locals—you know what I mean.” 

How Now Giant Dancing Cow? And Who?

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Christopher Keeble was meandering home along the Heights Bike Trail taking photos yesterday afternoon. Near the corner of Goliad St. and Spring St., in the First Ward, he came across a new mural by Wiley Robertson and dismounted to shoot some pics.

"And this nice van pulls up," Keeble says. "A nicely dressed, older Hispanic dude hops out and sets up a tripod. I tune him out while I try to take pictures."

"[And then] this f***ing heifer sashays by. Blew me away."

"I said how much I liked it, and the cow ordered the Hispanic dude to use my phone to take the portrait," Keeble continues.

Avert your eyes from Mr. Keeble's socks please.

The surreal tableau remains a mystery to Keeble. "When I asked the cow what was up, I interrupted his reply, saying something along the lines of, 'I don't want to know, I think it's awesome, thank you.' But I don't think this is the first time he's done this and I'd like to track down other dancing heifer things he's done."

So Houstonia readers, just who is that floridly-attired, gigantic dancing cow?  

This Week In Neighborhood Names: The Deroloc Addition

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This morning eagle-eyed local attorney Steven Grubbs sent me a link to a house for sale at 2206 Eclipse St., near the corner of Pinemont and T.C. Jester, right outside of Oak Forest and Candle Light Place and not all the way up in Acres Homes.

So yeah, it's kind of in no man's land, neighborhood nomenclature-wise, which is borne out by the fact that its HAR.com listing assigns it to no subdivision. Grubbs pointed out that it does have a legal designation though, and that is Tract 22, Block 18, Deroloc, which is "colored" spelled backward.

It's easy to assume that racism lurks behind the designation, that whites in then-Dixified Houston gave the area this name as a sort of smirking in-joke. Digging in to the history books tells a different story.

In 1899, backward spelling was something of a citywide mania. Modeled on Mardi Gras, Houston's biggest annual citywde celebration launched that year and was called Notsuoh, and it was presided over by King Nottoc, a deity whose approval had to be maintained to keep the Magnolia City's economy humming. Though they picked almost all of it and loaded almost all of the bales on to the ships at Allen's Landing, African Americans were barred from participating in Notsuoh, so in 1901, black civic leaders launced a festival of their own.

Its name: DeRoLoc. It's disturbing to note that the master of DeRoLoc was known as King La-Yol-E-Civ-Res.   

The other Notsuoh is gone now too, replaced in full by Dean's.

In 1913 the DeRoLoc Theatre opened at 609 San Felipe (now West Dallas) in Freedmen's Town. By 1919 the theatre had changed its name to the American and both Notsuoh and DeRoLoc had been shut down, casualties to World War I and/or moralizing editorialists scandalized by the drunken shenanigans. 

The name Deroloc lived on in Mexia, Texas, where in 1919 it was the headquarters of Deroloc Oil, described in Robert Dannin's Black Pilgrimage to Islam as "a legendary group of African Americans who pioneered drilling in East Texas...the men of Deroloc possessed exceptional knowledge of the local terrain and knew almost instinctively where to look for oil. They had memorized almost every inch of soil and landmark where they played as boys. Participating in the exciting oil boom was the realization of a world beyond the cotton fields. These black oil men were a new breed, full of promise, serious and poised, stylishly dressed and urbane."  

If that's the source of the name, what could have been prouder or more glamorous for its time?

Take a Staycation: How to Spend 48 Hours in the Museum District

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Monarch Bistro's dining room at Hotel ZaZa
Monarch Bistro's dining room at Hotel ZaZa

Looking to leave it all behind for the weekend? Why not decamp to a place that won’t cost an arm and a leg, that doesn’t need months of advance booking, and requires not a single plane ride—hell, you don’t even need a car to get around in the Museum District. That’s what we call relaxing.

Friday 

6 p.m. Check into the Hotel Zaza. (Book the Arts & Smarts Package, which features a $50 credit at the Monarch Restaurant, free valet parking, and two tickets to any MFAH exhibition.)

6:30 p.m.Dinner on the Monarch’s lush patio.

8:30 p.m. Grab a seat on the lawn at Miller Outdoor Theater for a free concert by the Houston Symphony. (There are five of them planned this summer.)

10 p.m.Nightcaps back at the hotel.

Saturday

9 a.m. Room service!

10 a.m. For her: Zaspa facial, massage, and mani-pedi. For him: tee time at the scenic 18-hole Hermann Park Golf Course. 

Noon Lunch from a local food truck and a picnic at the Cullen Sculpture Garden.

1 p.m. Museum crawl: the Museum of Fine Arts, the Contemporary Arts Museum, the Houston Museum of Natural Science, the Asia Society, the Health Museum, and more, as all are within easy walking distance of each other.

4:30 p.m. Catch the light rail to the Ensemble/HCC station and walk five short blocks to DiverseWorks. 

6:30 p.m. Head back to Main St. and revive yourself with coffees at Double Trouble Caffeine & Cocktails.

7 p.m. Pick up some locally made jewelry, art, and music at Sig’s Lagoon, The Tinderbox, and My Flaming Heart.

8 p.m. Dinner at chef Monica Pope’s Sparrow Bar + Cookshop

9:30 p.m. Live music at the Continental Club and Shoeshine Charley’s Big Top Lounge

Midnight Still up? Grab late night Tex-Mex at Tacos a Go-Go and catch the train back to the hotel.

Sunday

10 a.m. Restorative mimosas and Bloody Marys by the pool at Zaza.

Noon Sunday blues brunch at Danton’s.

2 p.m. Walk it off at the Houston Zoo and Hermann Park; take a trip on the tiny train and relive your childhood. 

5 p.m. Head home, replenished and refueled by your weekend “away.”

Exploring Timbergrove Park Apartments, Part One

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Abandoned, spooky Timbergrove complex tells many a sad tale.

Exploring Timbergrove Park Apartments, Part II

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Rambling through the interiors of dozens of abandoned apartments.

Have You Seen Your Mother, Baby?

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Leafing through the amazing pages of Houston's short-lived Age of Aquarius rock magazine.

Touring the Girl Scout History Museum

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Since opening in 2007, this little-known museum has spotlighted the scouting organization's illustrious past. Sorry, though: no Thin Mints.

Second-Hand Madness

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A few of the weirdest and most wonderful finds from Houston's thrift stores.

Barks and Recreation: Houston’s 10 Best Dog Parks

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It’s a good time to be a pooch in the Bayou City.

Go Jump in the Nake

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Just in time for National Nude Day (July 14), we take a trip to Emerald Lake, also known as Houston’s only nudist beach.
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